• Have you researched the breed thoroughly?
• Are all members in the home prepared to handle the new family member?
• Finances: purchase price is only a small part of overall cost. Bowls, leash, collar, food, vets, training, ect.
• Puppies are very time consuming. Do you have time for training, play, care, socialization and vet appointments?
• Yard? Is it fenced?
• Where will the dog sleep? Space for a crate? Room in the home?
• Shedding, drooling, Size of dog at maturity?
• Life Expectancy, 8-12 year commitment
• Home owners insurance or renting regulations?
• Other pets in the home, Will they get along?
• Vacation plans for the dog?
• Do you already have a vet?

Good decision making benefits not only your family but the puppy as well. Pets can be long and expensive commitments and require proper thought, research, and consideration.

Working Group
General Appearance
Ancient Italian breed medium-large size Molossus Dog. Sturdy, with a strong skeleton. Muscular and athletic, it moves with considerable ease and elegance. It has always been a property watchdog and hunter of difficult game such as the wild boar.

Size, Proportion, Substance
A muscular, balanced, large-boned dog, rectangular in proportion. The length of the dog, measured from the point of the shoulder to the point of buttock is approximately 10% greater than the height of the dog measured from the highest point of the shoulder to the ground.
Height: Dogs: 25 to 27.5 inches; bitches: 23.5 to 26 inches.
Weight: Proportionate to height.

Head
Molossus, large, its total length reaches approximately one third of the height at the withers. Planes of the skull and muzzle are slightly convergent; they are not parallel. The circumference of the head measured at the cheekbones is more than twice the total length of the head; skin is firm and smooth. Skull: Viewed from the front, skull is wide and slightly curved; width is equal to the length. From the side, a prominent arch begins above the eyes and then flattens backward toward the occiput. Viewed from the top, it has a square appearance due to the zygomatic arches and powerful muscles swathing it. Stop: Well-defined due to developed and bulging frontal sinuses and prominent arch above the eyes.
Expression: Very alert and attentive. Some wrinkling on forehead occurs when alert.
Eyes: Medium-size, almond-shaped, not round or bulging, tight fitting rims preferred with only a minimal amount of haw being visible.
Eye Color: Dogs with black muzzles (coat colors of black, fawn or red, and these colors brindled) dark brown eyes are preferred. Gray muzzles (coat colors of gray, fawn or red and these colors brindled), lighter shades are approved. Pigmentation of the eye rims is complete, pigmentation of eye rim matches pigment color of dog.
Disqualification: Yellow bird of prey; blue eyes.

Ears: Set well above the cheekbones. May be cropped or uncropped. If cropped, it is in an equilateral triangle. If uncropped, they are medium size, triangular in shape, held tight to the cheeks, and not extending beyond the jaw bone.
Nose: Large with well-opened nostrils, pigment color to match pigment color of the dog. Dogs with black pigment have black noses; gray pigmented dogs have gray noses; pigmentation is complete. The nose is an extension of the topline of the muzzle and does not protrude beyond nor recede behind the front plane of the muzzle.
Muzzle: Very broad and deep, width is almost equal to its length, which reaches approximately one third of the total length of the head; the depth of muzzle is more then 50% of the length of the muzzle.

The top and bottom muzzle plains are parallel, and the nose and chin form a perpendicular line. Viewed from the front, the anterior face should look flat and form a trapezoid, wider at the bottom. Muzzle is not overly narrow or snipey.
Lips: Rather firm. Upper lips moderately hanging, they join under the nostrils to form an inverted “U.” Pigmentation matches color pigment of dog. Dogs with black pigment have black lips; gray pigmented dogs have gray lips.
Bite: Slightly undershot (no more than ¼ inch) and level preferred. Scissor bite is acceptable, if parameters of the head and muzzle are correct. Dentition is complete. Incisors are in a straight line. No more than two missing teeth.
Disqualification: More than two missing teeth; wry mouth. Undershot more than 1/4 inch.

Neck, TOPLINE, Body
Neck: Slightly arched, flowing smoothly into the shoulders with a small amount of dewlap. The length of the neck is approximately one third the height at the withers.
Body: Depth of the ribcage is equal to half the total height of the dog, descending slightly below the elbow. Ribs are long and well sprung. Moderate tuck up.
Chest: Broad, well-muscled, strong forefront.
Back: Wide, strong, muscular. Highest part of shoulder blade slightly rising above the strong, level back.
Loin: Well-muscled, and harmoniously joined to the back.
Croup: Long, wide, slightly sloping. Rump should be quite round due to muscling.
Tail: Tail set is an extension of the backline. It is thick at the root with not much tapering at the tip. When not in action, carried low, otherwise horizontal or slightly higher than back, not to be carried in a vertical position. It is docked at the fourth vertebrae. In the case of natural tails, the tip reaches the hock but not below. Carried low, it is neither broken nor kinked but supple. Hanging when the dog is in repose; generally carried level with the back or slightly above the level of the back when the dog is in action, without curving over the back or being curled.
Disqualification: A natural tail that is atrophied or a natural tail that is knotted and laterally deviated or twisted.

Forequarters
Strong and muscular, well-proportioned to the size of the dog. Straight when viewed from the front or side; height of the limb at the elbow is equal to 50% of the height at the withers.
Shoulders: Muscular, laid back.
Upper arms: Strongly muscled, with good bone, powerful.
Elbows: Held parallel to the ribcage, turning neither in nor out.
Forelegs: Straight and with good bone, well muscled.
Pasterns: Almost straight, strong but flexible.
Feet: Round with well-arched toes (catlike). Lean, hard, dark pads and nails, except in the case of white toes. Front dewclaws: Can remain or be removed, if left intact should only be a single dewclaw on each leg.

Hindquarters
As a whole, they are powerful and strong, in harmony with the forequarters. Straight when viewed from the rear or front.
Thighs: Long, wide, angulated and well-muscled.
Stifle: Should be moderately angulated, strong.
Legs: Strong bone and muscle structure.
Hocks: Wide set, thick and clean, let down and parallel when viewed from behind. Rear pastern: straight and parallel.
Rear dewclaws: Any rear dewclaws are removed.
Hind feet: Slightly more oval-shaped and less-arched toes.

Coat
The coat is short, stiff, shiny, adherent and dense with a light undercoat that becomes thicker in cold weather.
Color
Acceptable colors are black, lighter and darker shades of gray, lighter and darker shades of fawn, and red. Brindling is allowed on all of these colors. Solid fawn and red, including lighter and darker shades, have a black or gray mask. The mask does not go beyond the eyes. There may be a white patch on the chest, throat, chin, backs of the pasterns, and on the toes.
Disqualification: Any color with tan pattern markings as seen in black-and-tan breeds.

Gait
The movement is free flowing and powerful, yet effortless, with strong reach and drive. As the dog accelerates, the feet converge toward a center line of gravity in a near-single track. When viewed from the side, the topline remains level, with minimal roll or bounce.

Temperament
The Cane Corso as a protector of his property and owners is unequaled. Intelligent, he is easily trained. Noble, majestic and powerful his, presence is impressive. He is docile and affectionate to his owner, loving with children and family.

Summary
The overall conformation of the dog should be well-balanced and proportionate. The foregoing description is that of the ideal Cane Corso; any deviation from the above described dog is penalized to the extent of the deviation.

Disqualifications
Yellow bird of prey; blue eyes.
More than two missing teeth; wry mouth.
Undershot more than ¼ inch.
Any color with tan pattern markings as seen in black-and-tan breeds.
A natural tail that is atrophied or a natural tail that is knotted and laterally deviated or twisted.

I am very smart like most Cane Corso puppies but I can be stubborn sometimes too. I will probably push all your buttons and test my boundaries but if you are consistent and firm I will figure it out. Due to my protective nature, I am a bit leery of strangers and take a while to warm up to new people, but I am very devoted to my family.

Although I will be very protective, don’t expect much when I am a baby. Right now I like to chase my tail and chew on everything, especially shoes. Other than chewing, I eat and sleep, poo, and chew. When I am around 2 years old I will be much bigger and more confident. Although some people think I look mean, and get a little intimidated when I bark, I truly love my family, and would do anything for them. So its not all bad, I can be lots of fun too.  Do you still want to take me home?

Family Pet Classifieds

Cane Corso Diet  is always important but even more critical in winter.  A Cane Corso needs extra calories in winter to keep warm, so feeding a high quality food is critical.  Dogs can be given a few extra calories during the colder months. Dogs should always have access to fresh and unfrozen water in the winter as well as summer. In many climates the only answer is to use a heated dog bowl to keep water thawed. The bowls are sold many places and usually cost around $20.

A quality shelter is also a necesity to protect the dog from snow, rain, and howling winds. They sell dog house heaters as well if you are feeling guilty.  A cheap drafty house will not cut it. The shelter should also be sized properly for the dog. Too big and the dog may get cold, too small and the dog will not be comfortable.  The shelter also needs bedding material such as straw or cedar shavings.  Generous amounts of straw are required and the dogs will make a cozy little nest from the material.

Health and age should also be taken into consideration before moving your pet outside. A sick, old, or young pup should stay indoors, they will not be able to tolerate the cold as well as a healthy adult. Acclimation to temperature is critical as well. Dogs who have lived indoors need to be slowly introduced to outside temperatures. Their bodies need time to adjust.  I also NEVER recomend  putting a young pup out in the cold, wait till spring if you must. In any case when the temps drop dangerously low all pets should be brought indoors for safety.

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The bark collar was tested on a cane corso who loved to bark at everyone and everything while in the yard. It worked the first time I used it, and seemed to almost startle her more than shock. The second time I put the collar on her she continued bark while the collar delivered its correction. She ignored it from that point on. Failure one.

I thought an e-collar may have been a good option for off leash training with our Italian Mastiffs and purchased a cheap one from Walmart. I should have known they dont sell any quality pet products. I tried the collar on several occasions and first noticed the batteries died quickly. I also noticed the Cane Corso only seemed to flinch when used on the highest setting, after a few corrections he too began to ignore the collar. I decided it was junk, and spent around $230 on a better device. It looked like a better product, cost a lot more, and claimed to be water proof. Again the device had no effect on the lower settings and minimal on the highest settings. Sometimes the dogs would twitch a little like they may have had a fly on their shoulder but tended to ignore the correction. When the dogs were really excited even the highest setting had no effect at all. Failure two. Much more expensive collars exist, but I was not prepared to attempt another. My dogs responded much better and quicker to a verbal correction.

Electronic fences are another issue. Again an excited Cane Corso will run past the fence and ignore the corrections. Even if the underground fence works great at containing your dog, it won’t stop another neibhorhood dog from entering your yard. It increases the possiblitly of a dog fight, unplanned breeding, or theft of a young puppy. An underground fence also fails to keep local children or a delivery driver from crossing the line and getting bit. The fences are not only ineffective for certain breeds but increase liability and add to a population of shelter pets.

A dog owner will be much better off teaching their dog proper pack structure, practicing positive reinforcement methods, and saving their $50 for something other than a cheap collar. When it comes to fences, nothing beats an old fashioned wood privacy fence.

Dogs do not feed themselves; Its the owner’s responsibility to ensure their pet is a healthy weight. Feeding a quality puppy food with moderate exercise will ensure your dog maintains a normal and healthy weight. Feeling for a dog’s back bone and ribs is a good indicator for healthy weight.  A nice tuck to the waist is also a good sign. Cane Corsos especially should have good visible muscle tone.

Cane Corso puppies need to be introduced and extensively socialized not only with new people but also other animals. Our dogs learn to meet, greet, and interact with many different species from a young age. I introduce and socialize our vaccinated puppies to other dogs at dog parks extensively for the first year of life. I first let the dogs sniff through the fence, then introduce while in leash, and lastly run free with other dogs. The practice is continued throughout the dogs life. I also encourage puppies to be socialized with other animals. Our dogs are comfortable around horses, pigs, chickens, goats, cows, alpacas, and any other creature I have come into contact with. Proper training and socialization combined with solid genetics produce very stable pets.

Cane Corsos have a strong natural dominant tendency but with proper training and socialization can easily be trusted around all other animals. I have taken all of our dogs to dog parks, and they can be trusted to roam freely on the farm surrounded by many species without ever having a single issue. Although properly socialized Cane Corso puppies can be trusted around other animals, owners still need to appropriately supervise their dogs.

The truth and facts are simple. At the moment we still live in America and have the freedom to make decisions for ourselves and our pets. Ear cropping is a cosmetic procedure which alters the dogs physical appearance. Cropping gives the Cane Corso a much different and possibly more intimidating appearance preferred by many owners. It has very few benefits, little risk, and no effect on the puppies long term well being. Ear cropping is a Cane Corso tradition and the personal choice of many new puppy owners. 

Regardless of personal preference whether a Cane Corso is cropped or uncropped it is still a Cane Corso. Temperament, loyalty, and athleticism all remain unaffected. If you are going to have your puppy cropped study the crop standard, print lots of pictures, and find a good vet with experience cropping Cane Corsos. The pups receive a few stitches and the ears seem to be sore for a few days after the procedure. Prices vary with vet and location but seem to range from $300-$600. Some vets include pain medications and antibiotics with the procedure. Before you decide to crop, DO YOUR HOMEWORK.

 As to whether I crop our Corsos or not; check out our Cane Corso photo gallery.

Puppies usually go to new homes around 8 weeks and that’s the time for socialization to begin. It begins in the home by teaching the pup how it can live properly with your family and continues in real world situations. There are many methods and ways to introduce a puppy to the world around it. Methods I use to socialize our Cane Corso puppies: 

• Take the puppy to visit the vet when it doesn’t need shots
• Bring the pup to a friends for a visit
• Trip to the farm to meet other animals
• Most pet stores allow pets inside
• A walk around town
• As many car rides as possible
• Bring the pup to meet other dogs, once vaccinated
• Parks usually have lots of activity

 The socialization of Cane Corsos can not be underestimated or taken lightly. The pocess of socailizing a dog or puppy is an ongoing process and can take months to realize certain results. It is very important for the owner to properly socialize the new Cane Corso puppy. Socailization is one of the most important steps in obtaining that perfect pet.

 By far the easiest way of exercising your Cane Corso is to take him for regular walks several times per day. This not only gets the pup a little exercise but also gets the owner a little as well. If a walk is not possible play a game of fetch in the yard. Some areas have large parks that can be great for exercising pets. If your a runner take your pet out for your morning jog. Swimming is not only a great workout for people but is an excellent way to keep your pet in top physical performance. I prefer to swim our Cane Corsos as it keeps them cool on extremely hot days and is a good full body workout.

 When considering ways to keep your family friend healthy, age is an important factor. Young pups should never be exercised too early and caution should be taken with old dogs. Pups need time to mature and grow before before intense exercise. I never push our dogs before 18 months. I also try to exercise the pack during the cooler mornings or evenings. Lastly its very important to ease into any new activity slowly and allow the dog to work of to more intense levels naturally. Never, too much, too fast.

 Cane Corsos are very athletic dogs and can keep up with their owners. A properly exercised dog is a much better behaved dog around the home. Exercise significantly decreases behavioral problems. If nothing else keep your pets moving and they will be healthier happier pets.